An African returns to his homeland after studying in Russia. His relatives ask him:
- Well, how do you like the famous Russian winter?
- The one with grass and leaves is still tolerable, but the one with snow is just some kind of nightmare...
(joke).

Winter with leaves is over, and that “nightmare with snow” is about to begin, forcing most skaters to forget about rollers until spring and choose some other way to spend their free time. Some people go on skis, some on a snowboard, and some change boots with wheels to boots with blades and go out on the ice. This article is addressed to those who are interested in the latter option.

Actually, what can a simple roller skater do at the skating rink? Rides are no longer needed - unfortunately, no one creates many kilometers of ice tracks, all that remains are sorcerers/tags, hockey, and just for a ride. As with roller skates, there are different types of skates suitable for different types of skating, the most versatile of which are hockey skates. I want to talk a little about them, their differences, features, and choices.

If you look at hockey skates with the eyes of a non-specialist, then they are all similar, like twin brothers, but when models for $50 and $500 are displayed in the same window, which do not differ much in appearance, anyone will ask the question “what’s the difference?” . With rollers it’s clearer - externally you can evaluate the material and type of boot, the diameter and stiffness of the wheels, the material and method of manufacturing the frame, but here everything looks the same...

Let's take a closer look at the skates and start with the boot.

Walking skates.

There are hockey skates and “hockey” skates - they look similar, but are not intended for hockey, designed for infrequent, quiet, recreational skating. Shoes for recreational skates are made from inexpensive synthetic materials, “young leatherette skin” - artificial leather, artificial leather, etc. The only rigid part in such a boot (not counting the sole) is perhaps the plastic toe - it is designed to protect the toes from possible blows or accidental damage from the blades of other people's skates. Otherwise, boots of this type are quite soft, they hug the foot comfortably when lacing, and the tongue is also soft. All this allows you to leisurely ride for a long time without experiencing discomfort. Considering the listed qualities and low cost, such models are popular in skate rental shops.

Entry-level hockey skates typically cost less than $100 per season. The differences between younger models of hockey skates and recreational skates generally boil down to greater rigidity of the boot and, accordingly, better fixation and support for the leg. This rigidity is achieved through the use of more durable materials (mainly nylon), and special plastic or foam inserts in the construction of the boot. The plastic toe is already able to withstand being hit by a puck, and the tongue of the boot, although still soft, is denser than that of recreational skates.

The next price group (from $150) is distinguished by an even more “advanced” boot, on which both an entry-level blade and a more serious one can be installed - this allows you to choose a model that best meets the requirements for cost and characteristics. I’ll write about the blades below, but boots in this category can use a wide variety of technological features, such as thermoforming along the leg, special foam inserts that take the shape of the ankle and speed up the adaptation of the boot to the leg, air chambers with pumping, tongue protection (hard shield, protecting against impacts and preventing the laces from digging into the instep), reinforced side protection, special quick-drying and moisture-wicking materials, composites, metal mesh in the outer trim, ventilated sole, etc. Also, the rigidity of the boot has been increased once again and its weight has been reduced as much as possible. I will dwell in a little more detail on some points from this list.

Thermoforming. Its meaning is to match the shoe as closely as possible to the shape of the owner’s foot. It is not a means to adapt any skates to any foot, but serves to finally adjust boots that are known to fit, and reduce the time of getting used to them, without bumps, calluses, and other similar troubles. To do this, the design of the boot includes a layer of thermoplastic material (plastic or foam), which softens when heated and hardens again when cooled.

The process goes like this: after preliminary fitting, the skates are placed in a special oven, where they are heated for several minutes so that the thermoplastic material in them softens.

After warming up, the boots become soft and flexible to the touch, like walking boots. They are taken out of the oven, put on shoes, laced up, and the owner sits in them while the thermal layer cools down and “remembers” the new shape (10-15 minutes). The result is a boot that does not require lengthy break-in and getting used to, fits well, does not press, and does not rub. The molding process is, in principle, reversible and repeatable, and in special cases it is possible to mold not the entire boot, but a separate area, for which there are special tools.

Thermoformable skates require compliance with certain care rules, for example, they cannot be dried near heating or heating devices, and in general, after molding, heating the boot above 40-45 degrees should be avoided.

Air chambers with pumping. They are used by Reebok in skates of the PUMP series. PUMP technology was first used in sneakers from this company in 1989. Inside the boot, above the bone of the joint, there is an air chamber covering the shin, and on the outside of the boot there is a miniature “frog” pump, when pressed, the inner chamber is inflated with air, covering the shin more tightly and fixing the heel.

Lacing lock. A loop of a special design, located at the border of the instep and the top of the lacing, allows you to fix the lace. This makes it possible to tighten the upper and lower parts of the lacing differently, independently. For example, the instep is weaker, so as not to put pressure, and the top is stronger, for better fixation of the lower leg, or vice versa. Used in mid- and high-end models of CCM and Reebok skates.

In the price group over $300, the “arms race” continues, and everything there is already quite “grown-up”, minimum weight, maximum protection, Kevlar, carbon, padded anatomical and thermoformable tongues, tongues with a replaceable “spring” that return part of the energy during repulsion, metal inserts in the sole, etc. to fully moldable composite boots, the sky's the limit.

The price limit for production models reaches ~$1000 per pair (Bauer Supreme Total One / Vapor X:60).

Blades.

On modern hockey skates, they are a structure of a direct metal blade (runner), secured in a plastic holder (holder), which is called a “cup”.

The glass is attached to the sole of the shoe with rivets or screws. The blade can be fixed in the glass once and for all, or it can be removable, but there is no general unified standard for the system for fastening the blade in the glass - different companies have different designs.

So, about the glasses: the plastic of the glasses for recreational skating and for hockey, of course, differs in properties. A hockey cup must withstand impacts from pucks, sticks, and other people’s skates, so it is made from special, impact-resistant types of plastic, while the manufacturer is looking for a compromise between the strength and weight of the structure, so cups in the middle and highest price categories are usually “decorated” with additional holes to reduce weight.

Today, the skate blades themselves have also ceased to be simple pieces of iron, and have acquired a set of useful (and not so useful) properties.

The simplest blades on recreational skates are a strip of not very hard, usually stainless steel, tightly fixed in a glass. Moreover, despite the inscription “Stainless” (stainless) on the blade, the instructions for the skates recommend wiping them dry after skating, and to dry, do not forget to remove the covers and wipe them again, and if you don’t do this, don’t be surprised if you notice blades have rust stains.

An important blade parameter is hardness. It depends on how often you have to sharpen your skates. For example, for comparison, if blades made of soft budget stainless steel can withstand 1-2 days of active, dynamic skating before the next sharpening is necessary, then on blades in the middle price range you can skate in the same mode for a week every day. Soft blades have only one advantage - they will never refuse to sharpen them.

In addition to stainless steel, inexpensive skates also have blades made of carbon steel; they are usually better in hardness, but such skates are certainly contraindicated to be left after skating, damp, with covers on, in a backpack until the next weekend.

Skates for rental points at skating rinks with synthetic (plastic) ice are also sometimes available for sale - in large sports stores and entertainment centers you can find these, instead of ice there are white sheets of plastic resembling fluoroplastic. Conventional blades on such a surface become dull within a few minutes of skating, and you don’t have enough time or sharpening wheels to sharpen them again after each client, so for this “ice” they make blades from high-carbon steel, with a hardness close to a file (~ 60 HRC). The good thing is that the sharpening on such blades when skating on regular ice will last a long time, and the sharpener will not know what he got into his hands until he starts sharpening. Outwardly, such blades do not reveal themselves in any way, and skate models with them are labeled “S.I.” (Synthetic Ice). The bad thing is that such skates are produced exclusively for rentals, and therefore there will be no technological miracles in their boots.

Entry-level hockey blades are not much different from the previous ones - structurally they are the same non-removable blade, only the quality of the steel is better. These blades usually already have some sort of brand name for identification, as opposed to the bland "High Quality Steel" or "Stainless Steel Blade". The blade material is stainless or carbon steel, the properties of which may differ markedly between different manufacturers. According to statistics, inexpensive Graf blades (Cobra Pro-2000) require sharpening less often than analogues from CCM/Reebok and Bauer.

Removable blades have settled in the middle price category. They no longer skimp on materials; high-quality stainless and carbon steel is used, so the main differences between blades from different companies come down to the system of fastening them in the glass. I'll tell you more about this.

The simplest and most common fastening system is with two screws on the side. It is simple, convenient, usually does not require special tools, and allows you to change the blade if necessary without removing the boot from your foot. The downside of this design is the possibility of self-unscrewing and loss of the mounting screw while riding, so you need to periodically check the tightness of the screws, tighten them, or use a thread locker. This mount is used on the blades of CCM/Reebok, Easton, Torspo, and Mission skates.

Speaking of Mission, mid- and top-end models of skates from this company are equipped with Pitch 3 cups/blades, the rear mounting screw of which has additional functionality. It is an eccentric that allows you to change the depth of installation of the rear part of the blade into the glass, in other words, change the height of the heel, choosing one of 3 options -1/0/+1.

This makes it possible to customize the blades to suit your riding style, as well as “try on” other boot/blade combinations.
Here are the approximate combinations of the Pitch 3 blade settings on the Mission boot:
PITCH -1 = Bauer + Tuuk
PITCH N = Graf + Tuuk / CCM + ProLite
PITCH +1 = Graf + Cobra

In another mounting option, the blade clings to the glass with a special hook in the front part, and in the back it is fixed with a screw passing vertically through the rear post of the glass. The screw is accessed from inside the shoe, for which, of course, you need to remove it and remove the insole. This fastening system is used in TUUK blades.

And the Graf company slightly improved this design by installing the screw at an angle back, so that it passed through the rear post of the glass all the way through, and you did not need to remove your skates to access it.

The blades of the upper price category differ from the previous ones mainly in weight - they are as lightweight as possible. This is done by cutting holes in the blades (perforations),

In addition to blades of the usual design, there are also quite exotic options, the most famous of which is the T-Blade system, which has been on the market for several years.

A special feature of the system is the minimal use of metal; for example, the steel part of the blade weighs only 6 grams and has a thickness of 1 mm. All other parts of the design, with the exception of a few fasteners, are made of composite materials and plastic, making the T-Blade more than 20% lighter than the lightest traditional blades.

In short, the design is an openwork composite or plastic “glass”, to which, using several screws and two equally openwork and plastic fastening strips, a composite “blade” is attached, on the working edge of which the above-mentioned 6-gram strip of high-quality hardened steel is fixed. The steel is so strong that the quality of sharpening during skating is maintained 3-5 times longer than on conventional blades, and when the blade becomes dull, all that remains is to unscrew it and replace it with a new one, sharpened during production, and the sharpening is always absolutely the same and perfect. The sharpening profile is selected upon purchase. Re-sharpening of the blades is not provided and is useless - there have been attempts to do this, but due to the minuscule thickness of the metal, the steel strip becomes very hot during sharpening, and the composite of the blade melts.

By the way, another property of these blades is related to heating - according to test results, they glide 35% better than conventional ones. This is explained by the fact that when rolling and rubbing against ice, a thin steel plate manages to heat up 3-4 degrees above the ambient temperature, due to which the ice melts more easily and, accordingly, glides better. Also, due to the flexibility of the blade, the skates hold better in turns and allow you to maneuver more sharply. Despite the apparent flimsiness of the design, the manufacturer claims that the blades can withstand being hit by a puck in 30-degree frost.

Skates with T-Blade blades have been produced at different times by many well-known manufacturers of hockey and sports equipment, such as CCM, Bauer, Graf, Botas, and K2.

And since we’re talking about unusual blades, I’ll mention another design called Thermablade. As the name implies, the principle of its operation is also related to temperature. Outwardly, these are ordinary blades, but just hold them for a couple of seconds by the heel post of the glass in certain places, and a light lights up inside the post. This is an indicator that the blade... has turned on. Yes, a lithium battery is located inside the glass (a compact charger and a stationary docking station are included in the delivery package) and a control circuit, and a heater is mounted on the metal blade. It warms up the blade slightly and it glides easier.

Thermablade was tested by NHL players for some time, then the tests were stopped, the reviews from the test participants turned out to be contradictory, some liked it, some did not, and in the end they refused to use it, although they did not ban it.

Selection and fitting.

Whatever the skates are, no matter how much they cost, their defining property, as in any shoe, is comfort and lack of discomfort, because no one needs even the best skates if it’s impossible to skate in them. In addition to the appropriate size and last, an important parameter is the stiffness of the boot, which in professional models can be comparable to the stiffness of a piece of 8 mm plywood, and putting such skates on an unprepared foot is a sure way to damage that foot. You can evaluate the stiffness of the boot even without removing it from the display case; just squeeze the opposite upper lacing loops with the thumb and forefinger of one hand. If the boot easily “folded” and the loops touched, then this is a walking boot, if for the same result it took some effort, then this is an initial hockey model, but if you couldn’t squeeze the boot loops until they touched, then you have a mid-level model in your hands, and if, despite all the efforts, the edges of the boot haven’t even really moved from their place, then the skates are really serious. I don’t claim that this is an ideal way to determine the properties of a boot, but so far it hasn’t let me down, and it’s definitely more accurate than using the price of skates.

For beginners, as well as those who skate on fitness rollers and choose their first ice skates for training, recreation, and relaxing skating, it makes sense to pay attention to recreational and beginner hockey models. The younger Graf models (Super 101/103/105) have proven themselves well in this category.

For regular, dynamic skating, or amateur hockey, I do not recommend recreational skates - they do not provide adequate support for the leg during sharp maneuvers, and if they can withstand them, it is only while the boot is new, and then it begins to sag, break, and lose its rigidity. The “leather” back can bend or tear, while the plastic back, which looks exactly like a more expensive model from the same company, can easily break.

Also, during active skating, the tightness of the boot weakens, and it will need to be re-laced periodically, each time tightening it tightly, thus trying to compensate for the insufficient fixation of the leg, which makes the blood circulation of the foot difficult, and on an open skating rink it can freeze, especially the toes; even warm socks will not help . It also happens that when the laces are tightened too tightly, the boot tongue becomes too soft and thin - the laces can cut into the instep of the foot, press and rub. If, during a game of hockey, such a shoe is hit with a puck from the heart, then it will also not be able to protect the foot. In general, for sorcerers and neat yard hockey, it is better to start your choice with inexpensive hockey skates. In this category, compared to competitors in terms of price/performance ratio, the Reebok 1K model from the 2007-2009 seasons looks attractive (the version of the 2010-2011 season just hasn’t come into my hands yet, so I can’t say anything about it, but it looks simpler, and the number of holes lacing decreased, there were 10 pairs instead of 11, which means something could have been changed in the design of the boot).

UPD: the 1K, 2K, 4K models of the 2010-2011 season have really changed, and now they are no different from their competitors (except for PUMP in 4K).

Freeskaters, slalom skaters, people accustomed to hard boots, or those who like to actively play hockey, entry-level skates may seem too soft, and they will have to choose from more expensive models. In this category, the models of the Flexlite line from Bauer seemed to me to be hockey-like, but at the same time closest to roller skates in terms of feeling on the feet.

In any case, no matter what I advise here, be guided by your own feelings, sit down in the store and try on different models, different companies, different sizes close to yours, choose what will be more convenient, without focusing on the inscriptions, color, type of blade, etc. - the main thing is the boot. For comparison, it can be useful to try on a model that is obviously more expensive to feel the difference and understand whether you need it.

When trying on, it is useful to know that starting from the middle price category, some manufacturers (for example, Graf) produce separate models of skates with different last options, designed for different feet: normal, with a high instep, with a low instep, or flat feet.

The fitting technology is the same as with rollers: put on the shoe, press the heel well into place, and then lace up. You need to measure on the sock you plan to skate in, and it is chosen depending on the temperature “outside” - on a closed skating rink, your feet will be warm even in a thin sock, but outside there are people who like to skate even in minus 20 degrees. Taking into account cold weather, the boot should not squeeze the foot, limiting blood circulation, and the toes should not rest against the toe of the boot from the inside, otherwise the feet will freeze. Just sitting passively in skates while trying on is pointless and in most cases unpleasant - your legs become numb. In laced skates, you need to walk around, trample, assessing the sensations in your feet, and how well the boot fixes and supports the ankle, and whether it limits mobility where it is needed. Keep in mind that, unlike rollers, hockey boots do not have a hinged café, and the forward tilt of the shin is due to the flexibility of the boot and is limited by the height and degree of tightening of the lacing. If you want to take off sharply, maneuver, and accelerate quickly, do not lace 1-2 pairs of upper holes, but keep in mind that you will lose a little lateral support. Pay attention to whether the upper loop of the lacing cuts into the front of your shin when you tilt your foot forward, and if you notice this, you need to either loosen the lacing or choose a skate model with a thicker/dense or protected tongue. By the way, when trying on, take care of your hands - after trying on 5-6 pairs of skates, lacing can easily tear off the skin on your fingers. You can ask for a lacing hook at a specialty store.

- hockey players use these to avoid damaging their hands, and sometimes similar hooks are tied to benches for trying on skates.

It makes sense to choose a blade for those who skate actively and often, but for recreational skating any blade is suitable. The detachable design of the blade is generally interesting only for people who actively play hockey and those who often sharpen skates - in case of breakage or wear (from frequent sharpening), the blade can be quickly replaced with a new one, or, for example, with another one that is compatible with the mounting a model from the same company, lighter or differing in some other properties. It’s the same with a burst or broken glass, although there are options here depending on how the glass is attached to the shoe - anyone can handle the screws, and if the glass is riveted, it’s not easy to replace it at home.

You need to select a glass based on the purpose for which the skates are purchased - there are no special requirements for the glasses of recreational models, so don’t be surprised if you decide to jump over backpacks on such skates (a popular pastime for roller skates at the skating rink), turning sharply on your heel, or after being hit by a puck, you will find that such a glass has burst under the heel, or an extra hole has formed in it.

A separate topic for glasses is frost resistance, because in the cold even the most durable plastic can become as fragile as glass, so if you plan to expose the blades to impacts (jumping, hockey) at temperatures below minus 10 degrees, it makes sense to pay attention to this parameter. Among hockey glasses, the TUUK (Bauer) models for outdoor skating rinks are famous for their high frost resistance and durability (the popular TUUK Custom+ is not one of these - they are for indoor spaces), but according to reviews, the new Graf Ultra Light 5000 and Cobra NT-3000 are no worse. Another reason why you may be puzzled when choosing a glass is the different heel heights of different companies. The reputation of the most versatile and comfortable glasses is also maintained by TUUK products, which is why skate manufacturers, for example Graf, standardly equip some of their models with these glasses/blades.

The use of T-Blade blades is justified primarily on high-quality, clean, especially artificial ice, where their high performance and service life will be fully demonstrated, and of course, with the availability and reasonable cost of new blades. You can find them in Moscow stores; when purchasing, you need to know the length of the blade and the sharpening radius (these numbers are part of the marking of each blade). For skating on open ice in some Central Park of Culture and Culture, where asphalt is periodically visible from under the ice, the choice of such blades is, to put it mildly, questionable.

Closing the topic of blades, we can add that in skates made by no one knows who and no one knows where, no one knows what can be used as a material for the blades, and no one knows what will happen to such a blade when skating, but it could happen to it, for example, like this:

Sharpening

In fact, this is a separate science, but for those who choose their first skates, there is absolutely no need to delve into its intricacies - at public skating rinks and at ordinary sharpening points, skates are sharpened “standardly”, and if you sharpen in a specialized store (for example, immediately when purchasing skates ) , just warn the master that you are a beginner, and there is no need to be shy, otherwise you will be slowed down for a week by a multi-meter T-stop and a turn, until the sharpening becomes a little dull, instead of mastering the familiar “Power” from roller skates and the traditional “Parallel” for skates.

Good luck with your choice and enjoy your ride.

(c) _Ro_, November 2010, especially for the site

Nowadays, when there are a lot of different fakes on store shelves. It is becoming extremely difficult to find good quality hockey skates. Of course, we can take the first option that comes our way, but will it serve us long and faithfully? The answer, of course, is NO.

How to buy skates, how to find out their rating and popularity?

That is why in this article you can learn about the rating of the best hockey skates and their brands, as well as details about each of the best options presented.

Indeed, a hockey player without skates is like a shoemaker without boots. And therefore, such a choice must be approached extremely responsibly. For help in choosing, we can turn to any famous person whose life is in one way or another connected with ice. First of all, he will easily tell you that if skates are purchased for amateur sports, then in this case it is better to take the option from a Thai or Chinese manufacturer, since they are fast and easy. And in the case of professional sports, you need to think carefully and make a choice from the following brands that are well known to any athlete...

Popular skate manufacturer Bauer

Very well known in wide circles, the Bauer brand, which produces professional hockey skates, offers truly excellent skates with amazing quality and difference from other famous brands. The main features are the following advantages:
1. A stiffening wedge built into the side trim regulates lateral stability;
2. Thanks to a special anatomical insole, the boot becomes as comfortable as possible. The material of the boot fits the foot at the heel, and the foot fits tightly into the sole;
3. Uses a rigid outsole for added stability when turning.
The second most popular brand of skates is Reebok. A very well-known brand, which has gained popularity thanks to its high-quality and affordable products, offers us a choice of some of their options for hockey skates. The founder of this company is himself an athlete and therefore knows better than others from his own experience which product is well suited for training and performances. This is confirmed by the fact that the company was founded in 1985 and to this day maintains impeccable quality and reliability, maintaining the tradition of the best models. Reviews about them are always only positive and truly deserved.

Skate and Accessories Manufacturer CCM

And finally, an equally famous brand of skates is CCM. A very good brand that has earned a huge number of positive reviews, thanks to providing ample skating opportunities and additional confidence on the ice. It also has the unique feature of individually adjusting the skates to the hockey player’s foot, which undoubtedly plays a very important role in this sport. All models are made from the best materials and deserve the highest ratings from experts.
The rating of hockey skates has come to an end. I think now you can easily make your thoughtful choice and not regret it.
Happy shopping to you!

In this article we will look at the features and differences between hockey skates and all other types and how to choose them correctly.

At first glance, all hockey skates are the same; if they can somehow be distinguished from figure skates, then the difference between them is not striking.

Let's start with the fact that there are hockey skates and “hockey” skates in quotation marks, that is, they are similar in appearance to real ones, but are not suitable for hockey, but rather suitable for measured gliding for the sake of relaxation. The boots of such recreational skates are usually made of synthetics, leatherette and artificial leather. Such a boot will not protect you from being hit by the puck and will not prevent injury, since all protection comes down to a hard toe, which, at best, will save other skaters from the blade. Overall the boot itself is quite soft and comfortable. You will be able to ride for your pleasure quite and comfortably. Such skates are inexpensive due to cheap materials, and therefore are often common at skate rental points.

Hockey skates

Real hockey skates intended for sports are much more expensive. The easiest option for beginners at the height of the season is at least $100. The main feature of hockey skates is the greater rigidity of the boot, which provides good fixation of the ankle joint, and therefore reduces the risk of injury significantly. The rigidity of the boot depends on the material of manufacture. Most often, hockey boots are made of nylon, and plastic or foam elements are also inserted into the composition of the boot. Even the tongue in hockey boots, although soft, is significantly stronger than that of recreational skates.

The more expensive the boots, the more perfect they are. Often you can install a blade for beginners in the sport as well as for an advanced level. This makes it possible to choose a model that meets the required quality and price requirements.

In advanced boots in the price category starting from $150, various improvements appear, for example, thermoforming to the shape of the foot, foam inserts that remember the silhouette of the ankle and make it easier to get used to the boot, air chambers, tongue protection, additional side protection, metal mesh in the outer trim, ventilated sole and much more. Well, the more professional the boots, the stiffer they are, but lighter in weight.

Let's take a closer look at some of the announced features.

Thermoforming allows the boot to fit exactly according to the silhouette of the owner’s foot. Of course, it does not fit all skates to all feet, but only makes an already exactly fitting boot more comfortable and perfect in shape, which reduces the adaptation time, negating calluses, abrasions and other inconveniences. How is this done? The boot contains a material (foam or plastic) that softens when heated, and when cooled, takes the required shape and hardens.

To heat up the thermoplastic material, the shoe is placed in a special oven for several minutes. Then the owner puts on the boots, which have become softer and more pliable, laces them up and waits 10-15 minutes until the boots take on his individual contour. The skates fit, as they say, like a glove: they do not need to be additionally broken in, they do not pinch or rub anywhere. This process can be repeated several times and not for the entire boot, but for the necessary part of it; for this, the necessary tools are used.

Thermoplastic skates cannot be stored near heating or heating devices, and after the molding process it is not recommended to exceed the temperature of more than 40-45 degrees.

Air chambers with pumping located just above the bone inside the boot, it encircles the ankle joint, and on the surface of the boot there is a mini-pump - the so-called frog, if you press on it, air enters the chamber, due to which the shin is covered more tightly and fixed more securely. This PUMP technology was first used by Reebok in sneakers in 1989.

Lacing lock - This is a specially shaped loop fixed between the upper lacing zone and the instep of the boot. This design allows the top and bottom to be laced separately. Alternatively, you can secure the shin more firmly by tightening the upper part and loosening the lower part so as not to squeeze the leg. This technology can be found on skates of the middle and higher class from manufacturers CCM and Reebok.

In the next price tier from $300, boots become even more sophisticated, the struggle to minimize weight and increase the degree of protection continues, technologies are improved: carbon, Kevlar, tongues become more anatomically shaped and thermoformed, tongues with a spring appear, which releases part of the energy during a push , metal inserts on the sole, up to composite boots that can be completely molded.

The upper limit for similar mass-produced models can be about $1000 per pair (Bauer Supreme Total One / Vapor X:60).

Blades

Hockey skates, in addition to the boots themselves, consist of metal blades (runner), which are fixed in the so-called glass - a special plastic holder (holder). The glass, in turn, is screwed to the sole with rivets or screws. The blade can be removable, or it can be attached to the boot for life. Each manufacturer offers its own blade mounting scheme.

The plastic from which the holder is made can have varying degrees of strength. But in any case, he must cope with impacts from the puck, other people’s skates, and sticks. Therefore, manufacturing companies are looking for a middle ground between the strength of the material and the weight of the skate; this explains the presence of holes in the glasses to reduce weight.

Modern blades are far from just a piece of metal; they have a number of important characteristics that you need to pay attention to.

Pleasure skates have regular blades, which are a strip of stainless steel, often quite soft, and usually non-removable. Cunning manufacturers often label them “stainless,” which means stainless, but they themselves explain in the skate care manual that they need to be wiped with a dry cloth, removed the covers while drying, and wiped dry again. Failure to comply with such measures will inevitably lead to the appearance of traces of rye on the blades ().

One of the most important properties of blades is their hardness. This affects the frequency of skate sharpening. Judge for yourself: inexpensive skates with soft stainless steel will last no more than a couple of days of vigorous skating; blades on mid-price skates will last at the same pace for about a week.

Alternative to stainless steel– carbon - Carbon Steel. It is found in the inexpensive segment, and is certainly harder, but it is recommended to take care of skates with such blades even more carefully and in no case forget about them until the next rides and do not leave them damp.

There are also skates intended only for artificial ice (often found in large sports stores and entertainment centers, instead of ice there is plastic), they are marked with the inscription “S.I.” (Synthetic Ice). The blades for them are made of high-carbon steel, and the hardness (~60 HRC) is comparable to files. The sharpening on such skates when gliding on regular ice remains for a long time, but they are intended only for rental, so you can’t expect any special frills or technical bells and whistles from them. Regular blades are not suitable for synthetic ice because they become dull after just a few minutes of sliding.

Hockey skates for beginners are not fundamentally different from recreational skates., only the steel of the blades is of better quality. Often they already have a brand marking, unlike the nameless “High Quality Steel” or “Stainless Steel Blade”. Blades are made of stainless steel or carbon steel. Each manufacturer has different quality. Practice shows that budget Graf skates (Cobra Pro-2000) require sharpening less often than their classmates CCM/Reebok and Bauer.

Skates from the mid-price segment may already have removable blades. Steel, as a rule, is of high quality from all manufacturers, so when purchasing, you need to pay attention to the design of how the blades are mounted in the glass.

The most common option is screwing it with two screws from the side; this does not require professional skills or equipment, it is convenient, and makes it possible to replace the blade without removing the blade. The disadvantages of this scheme include the possibility of arbitrary unscrewing and loss of the screw during sliding, which requires regular monitoring and tightening of the fasteners. This system is used by skate manufacturers CCM/Reebok, Easton, Torspo, Mission.

By the way, the latter uses Pitch 3 technology on the blades and glasses on medium and expensive models, that is, using a screw in the mounting pattern, it is possible to change the height of the heel, fixing the depth of fixation of the blade in one of three positions. This way you can customize your skate and experiment with the boot-blade combination. Here are some of these combinations for the Pitch 3 blade:

PITCH -1 = Bauer + Tuuk
PITCH N = Graf + Tuuk / CCM + ProLite
PITCH +1 = Graf + Cobra

The next fastening scheme involves connecting the blade to the glass using a special hook in the front and a screw in the back. The screw pierces the back of the glass perpendicular to the surface of the ice. To get to this screw, you need to pull out the insole. In particular, this fastening pattern is found on TUUK blades.

As we already wrote above, expensive models weigh less due to special holes in the blades. However, the top models did not stop there; only the lower part of the blades remains steel, and the rest is made of plastic (CCM Rocket Runner) or aluminum (TUUK Lightspeed Fusion Runner).

There are also extravagant fastening compositions, such as the T-Blade system, which occupies its own niche in the market. In this design, metal is used to a minimum, in particular the steel section has a weight of no more than 6 grams and a thickness of 1 mm. The remaining parts are mainly made of plastic or composite materials. This makes the T-Blade 20% lighter than conventional lightweight blades.

This system consists of an openwork glass made of plastic or composite; a composite blade is screwed onto it using a pair of the same openwork plastic bars and mounting screws. A six-gram edge made of high-grade steel is fixed on the working surface. The quality of the steel extends the period without sharpening by 3-5 times compared to conventional blades. If the blade becomes dull, you can easily disconnect it and screw on a new one with factory sharpening. The sharpening is almost perfect. You can select the sharpening profile at the time of purchase. This design does not allow for re-sharpening, as the strip of metal at the end of the blade is too thin and heats up during sharpening, causing the composite to melt.

But such blades glide more than a third better than ordinary ones. This is all due to the same heating - when friction against ice, the temperature of the steel rises 3-4 degrees more than the environment and the ice melts a little, which affects the quality of sliding. More flexible blade material adds maneuverability when turning and performing certain elements. This composition may seem fragile, but according to the manufacturer, it can withstand a puck hit at minus 30 degrees. T-Blade technology is found at various times in many popular brands CCM, Bauer, Graf, Botas, and K2.

The Thermablade design also falls into the category of non-standard blades. From the name it is already clear that temperature is directly related to the process. Visually, these blades are indistinguishable from ordinary ones. However, if you hold the blade in the area of ​​the heel post for a couple of seconds, an indicator will flash inside it, meaning that the blade... has begun to work. The glass contains a special battery (charging and docking station included) and electronic circuitry, and a heater is installed on the blade. Once the process is started, the blade heats up and its sliding characteristics improve.

Thermablade technology was used by NHL players, but they decided to abandon it because the reviews were controversial, but there is no ban on its use.

Selection and fitting

When choosing skates, the most important thing is the comfort of the boot and last. After all, no bells and whistles and technological improvements will help if somewhere there is pressure, rubbing and skating turns into flour, not pleasure. Once you have found your size, pay attention to stiffness - one of the most important characteristics of the boot. Remember that in real professional versions it can be comparable to 8mm plywood, and if the foot is not prepared for this, do not expect anything good. Squeeze the screw loops at the top, located opposite each other, with your thumb and forefinger, so you can imagine the rigidity of the boot without even trying it on. If the loops easily move towards each other, and the boot is crumpled like a rag, then you are holding in your hands a clearly walking option. If the boot does not give in so easily, but still wrinkles, these are boots for novice hockey players. If the upper loops could not be connected, this is an average model. Well, if the edges of the shoe didn’t even move, these are real professional hockey skates. This is, of course, not a universal way to check skates, but it will serve as a good help when focusing on price.

If you are a beginner and are looking for your first skates for learning and relaxing on the ice, then take a closer look at recreational skates and skates for beginner hockey players, in particular for the initial Graf models (Super 101/103/105).

If you intend to constantly and actively skate or are seriously thinking about hockey at the amateur level, then recreational skates are not suitable for you, since their rigidity is insufficient for good protection, the leg is not properly fixed, which can lead to disastrous consequences during fast movements. Over time, when the boot begins to crumple and tear, there will be practically no use from it, simply because these skates are not designed for such a pace and nature of maneuvers: the plastic heel may break, and the pseudo-leather one will simply tear. In addition, on recreational skates, during vigorous skating, the lacing becomes loose, which leads to the need to periodically lace the foot tighter to ensure fixation, and this is harmful to the blood circulation of the foot. Your feet can get cold on an outdoor skating rink, even if you're wearing wool socks. Reinforced lacing digs into your foot, as these skates have a soft tongue. Well, of course, when playing hockey, harsh maneuvers, hits with the puck, and tangling with other people’s skates are inevitable, and the insufficient rigidity of the boot will not be able to protect you from this. So consider inexpensive hockey skates. For example, Reebok 1K seasons 2007-2009.

Well, for those who cannot see themselves without vigorous action on the skating rink, moderately aggressive skating and active games of hockey, skates for beginners are not suitable due to excessive softness, so the choice will have to be made from more expensive options. You can pay attention to the Flexlite line from Bauer.

Be that as it may, the choice is yours: you need to go and measure, measure, measure, in the end you will find your hobby.

It would not be superfluous to add that many companies offer in their mid-range and higher-priced lines some skates with different deck options k: regular, for high arches, low arches or for people with flat feet.

When trying on, put on the boot, find a comfortable position for the heel and only then lace it up. Wear the socks you intend to ride in. For indoor skates, you can wear a thin one, for open skates, a thicker one. The foot should be comfortable in the boot, nothing should press, rub or squeeze anywhere, the toes should not be pressed tightly against the toe of the boot, otherwise they will freeze.

Sitting in laced boots, you will not understand whether they are comfortable or not, in addition, this is fraught with numbness in your feet. So be more active, wander around the store, stomp around, check how clearly your leg is fixed, and whether you can perform maneuvers. The forward tilt of the shin is limited by the flexibility of the boot and the height of the lacing. If it is important for you to quickly gain speed and start quickly, to be mobile, leave the upper holes in the lacing unfilled, but it is important to understand that this will slightly damage the lateral support.

If the top loop of the lacing is pressing on your foot, you will need to either loosen it or look for skates with a thicker tongue. If you intend to try on several pairs of skates, it is better to immediately ask for a special lacing hook, otherwise you may tear off the skin.

The question of choosing a blade will become relevant if you ride constantly and energetically, in other cases, regular blades will do. Removable blades should be considered by more or less experienced amateur hockey players, or by those who sharpen their skates too often, which renders them unusable.

The same thing with glasses. The broken glass must be selected based on the purpose of the skates. If you've done some daring maneuvers or been hit by a puck on your skates, it's not surprising if the glass just can't handle it.

Among other things, glasses must be frost-resistant. This is especially true if you consider yourself to be someone who likes to play in cold temperatures below 10 degrees, since any durable plastic becomes brittle at this temperature. The TUUK models from Bauer, Graf Ultra Light 5000 and Cobra NT-3000 have proven themselves well for outdoor skating rinks, but the no less famous TUUK Custom+ are designed for indoor skating rinks.

When selecting a glass, problems may arise due to the fact that the height of the heel where it is located varies among different manufacturers. TUUK glasses have gained lasting fame, which explains why they are standard equipment on skates from other companies, for example, Graf.

It makes sense to buy T-Blade blades if you will be skating on flawless artificial ice where you will be able to unleash the potential of these blades. It is necessary to find out the sharpening radius and blade length in advance. If you know for sure that you will rarely leave the rink somewhere in the Central Park of Culture and Culture, then you should think carefully about the need for such an expensive purchase.

And finally, about blades, avoid purchasing a product from an unknown manufacturer, made from something unknown and where, otherwise unknown things can happen when skating on ice.

Hockey skate sharpening

Here we will only briefly mention that there is no need for a beginner to delve into the intricacies of sharpening. This service is usually provided at most rental skating rinks; you can also ask for skates to be sharpened at a specialty store when purchasing new skates.

Not long ago I had to help choose men’s professional ice hockey skates at the expert level, and I was faced with the problem that the network provides very little information on professional and semi-professional models. As for hockey skates for beginners, there is simply a dime a dozen materials, but with professional models things are not so rosy. Therefore, I had to familiarize myself with the equipment of our team, as well as the national hockey teams of countries such as Canada, Finland and the USA. In this article you will find a rating of professional models of ice hockey skates, the main characteristics of such skates and information on the approximate cost of professional models.

Rating of professional hockey skates

As for the Russian national ice hockey team, our most popular brands are Bauer, CCM, Reebok, Graf, Easton and Mix. These brands are listed in order from the most popular and common to the least popular. In 2015, our team competed in full equipment from CCM. Of course, each brand has models of different levels for beginners, amateurs and professionals.

Bauer. An American brand that is most widely represented in Russia compared to other hockey brands. Adult hockey skates from this company are represented by several lines, namely Nexus, Supreme and Vapor. The Vapor line is especially popular among our team.

Top models in each line: Bauer Vapor 1X, Bauer Nexus 1N and Bauer Supreme 1S. Each of these models costs about fifty dollars. But, oddly enough, other skates from these lines have proven themselves best.

1. Bauer Vapor X500. The professional and relatively inexpensive Bauer Vapor X500 model is very popular and has excellent performance characteristics. Its cost is about ten thousand rubles. These skates are ideally designed for fast and fast skating. Their features are due to their characteristics. First, there is a standard fit in the toe area and a tapered V fit in the ankle and heel area. This allows players to accelerate and turn very quickly in these skates. Second is the composition of the upper and lower parts of these skates. Upper: Quarter Package construction - nylon with thermoformed X-rib design, hydrophobic microfiber lining, ankle padding with anatomical foam ankle pads, anatomically shaped tongue (2-piece, 40 oz felt, with metatarsal guard), EVA sockliner molded for comfort, thermoformable skate upper, heel support - patent-pending integrated anatomical heel/ankle support. Bottom: outsole (transparent integrated TPU), blade holder (TUUK LIGHTSPEED EDGE), blade (TUUK Super stainless steel). These skates are designed for foot sizes D and EE.

2. Bauer Nexus N8000. Incredibly comfortable, highly durable and ultra-light skates. They feature the following upper features: Professional Grade Nylon Tech Mesh, HYDRA MAX Mesh Lining, Lightweight Memory Foam Ankle Cushions, 3-Piece Tongue (48 oz., Felt, Metatarsal Guard), FORM Footbed -FIT+ with heel stabilizer, thermoformed forefoot. Bottom: Outsole (Pro TPU with graphic design), blade holder (TUUK LIGHTSPEED EDGE), blade (TUUK LS2 stainless steel). These skates are designed for foot sizes D and EE.

3. Bauer Vapor X900. The fit of these skates is completely similar to the Bauer Vapor X500 described above. Upper: Quarter Package construction - 3D Curv ® composite upper with X-rib design, HYDRA MAX mesh lining, lightweight anatomical ankle pads, anatomical FORM FIT tongue (contains 48 oz. and 40 oz. felt and molded polyethylene shin guard). metatarsal), FORM-FIT insole with support and moisture control, thermoformable skate upper, anatomical heel and ankle support. Bottom: Lightweight, full composite sole, blade holder (TUUK LIGHTSPEED EDGE), blade (TUUK LS3 stainless steel blade). These skates are designed for foot sizes D, EE.

4. Bauer Nexus N5000. The most inexpensive skates from this rating. They are much inferior to the models listed above, as they are not equipped with a thermoformable boot. However, it's a great value for the money and has a lot going for it. Upper features: Quarter Package construction - lightweight mesh, brushed nylon lining, ankle protection with comfortable foam ankle pads, molded felt comfort tongue, EVA footbed , molded for comfort. Bottom material: sole (TPR), blade holder (TUUK LIGHTSPEED Pro), blades (TUUK Super stainless steel). These skates are designed for foot size R.

CCM. CCM is Canada's oldest hockey equipment brand. Since 2015, it has been an official partner of the Russian national hockey team. For over a hundred years, this brand has been producing professional hockey equipment of the highest quality.

Ice skates from CCM are represented by three lines: Ribcore, Jetspeed and Super Tacks. The rating includes some successful models.

1. CCM Ribcor 48K Skate. Professional skates with a thermoformable boot and protective coating on the blade costing about 30 thousand rubles. Thanks to the protective coating, the blades last longer than conventional stainless steel blades. The lightweight, three-layer tongue provides a comfortable fit and secure protection. These skates are designed for foot sizes D, EE.

2. CCM Tacks 5092.Professional hockey skates with a thermoformable boot made from a synthetic blend with a synthetic fabric interior, stainless steel blades and extra ankle support. These skates are designed for foot sizes D, EE.

Easton. A fairly old family brand with a fairly young hockey division, which has been operating since 1986. In 2016, Bauer bought Easton, so it is now a subsidiary of Bauer.

1. Easton Mako M8. Very comfortable fit and very light professional skates. These skates are designed for foot sizes D, EE. Thermoformable boot is made of combined synthetics. The skates feature patented Extendon technology, a water-repellent lining, a lightweight tongue with safety laces, an ORTHOLITE sockliner, and a CXN stainless steel blade.

When choosing professional skates, it is not enough to simply study the ratings of the best skates. It is important to be able to make the right choice taking into account the fullness of your legs, choose the right size, and also take into account the characteristics of your playing style. You can read about this in the next article in order: ““.

A pair of professional Bauer skates is the dream of many ice enthusiasts. Poor sports equipment can negatively affect the process of skating, cause pain in the legs, blisters and just bring disappointment. But this will not happen if you become the owner of Bauer skates.

A brand with a long history

This legendary hockey equipment appeared in Canada in 1927. A family-owned shoe company began producing hockey skates. Bauer pioneered the permanent blade model called the Bauer Supreme, which took the hockey world by storm. The company is known for its innovative approach to the production of hockey skates. They are a leader in innovation in the sport when it comes to sticks, helmets and protective equipment.

Professional hockey skates "Bauer" were worn by such stars as:

• Jonathan Tows.
• Brooks Orpik.
• Claude Giroux.
• Ryan Getzlaf.
• Stephen Stamkos.
• Devan Dubnyk.
• Brian Elliott.

How to determine size?

The most important thing is a well-chosen pair of skates. It is important to determine the parameters of the leg in order to purchase the correct one. After all, each manufacturer’s products differ in the width and depth of fit. Therefore, it is important to view the size chart.

To determine the leg parameters you need:

• Take a landscape sheet and place it on a hard surface.
• If you wear socks with skates, put them on and then place your foot on the paper so that your entire foot fits on it.
• While standing, take a pen or pencil and outline the leg.
• Remove the paper and measure in centimeters the distance from the furthest point of your toes to the end of your heel. This will be the length of the leg. Now measure the two wide points of the forefoot, this is the width of the foot.
• Repeat these steps for the second leg. This can be done either on the back of the paper that was used or on a new one.

Skate structure

Each pair of skates has three components: a boot, a holder and a blade. TUUK holders and runners are the basis of professional Bauer skates. They perform a key task: they are responsible for mobilizing the athlete. The blades are mounted on a holder. They come in one piece and double.

Hockey boots are quite a piece of equipment. Manufacturers are constantly looking for innovative ways to create the lightest skates possible. High quality boots are made from materials such as special glass, carbon composite, thermoformed foam and antimicrobial hydrophobic lining. Professional-level Bauer skates are a guarantee of quality and long years of service. Below is another type of such product.

Professional ice hockey skates "Bauer"

Player speed is an important quality during the game. High-quality sports equipment can help with this. Professional Bauer skates will give the player the opportunity to feel comfort and speed. As already mentioned, only the best materials are used to create the boot, holder and blade. This provides stability and support to the athlete's foot. The lining of the skates is made of water-wicking and wear-resistant fabric. The dense material improves heel support and also keeps your feet dry. Toe protection is provided by a revolutionary insole design. The foot is securely fixed with grip side inserts.

Professional ones are light in weight. This is helped by the unique alloy from which the blade is made. Stainless steel in combination with aluminum reduced the weight of the blade by 30%. The composite tongue provides support and stability to the player, allowing for faster acceleration and difficult turns.

Therefore, you should not skimp on quality; buy high-quality professional Bauer skates. The company guarantees a long service life of its products.